Venice Churches 
The Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

"To truly understand Venice, one must delve into the soul of its churches. And there is no better place to start than Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari." - Carlo, a Venetian historian

In the heart of the enchanting labyrinth that is Venice, where history whispers through the canals and art dances on the water's edge, stands a sanctuary that encapsulates the essence of the city's storied past and its eternal beauty. Welcome to Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, an architectural marvel and a spiritual sanctuary that beckons the soul and tantalizes the senses.

Brief History of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

The church, commonly known as the Frari, traces its roots back to the late 13th century when the Franciscan friars embarked on the ambitious endeavor to construct a grand place of worship that would mirror the city's growing influence. The cornerstone was laid in 1250, and the construction of the church continued for decades, with the final touches added in the 15th century.

During the Renaissance, the Frari blossomed into a beacon of artistic and spiritual fervor. It became a canvas for renowned artists of the time, a testament to the symbiotic relationship between faith and creativity. The likes of Titian, Bellini, and Donatello graced its walls and corridors with their masterpieces, turning the Frari into an art gallery as much as a place of worship. These artistic endeavors not only elevated the aesthetic grandeur of the church but also solidified its position as a cultural hub of Venice.

Exterior

From the outside, the church does not appear particularly striking and is in fact rather austere, which is in keeping with Franciscan principles.

You won’t find any ostentation here, but nonetheless, there is a certain simple beauty and something special about this church.

Of all the Venice churches, this is the least photogenic. When you see it, you will understand that it looks far lovelier than it appears in photos, particularly photos taken by me!

The bell tower is important too in that it is the second highest in Venice—only that of San Marco is higher.

Perhaps it is just my upbringing and having attended a Franciscan church for most of my childhood that makes it seem special to me, but I doubt it. Most of my friends and family have also found this to be a strangely moving place.

Once you step inside you understand why...

The Tomb of Pesaro. Photo by Ardalan Ameli

Interior

As you step through the entrance of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, you step back in time. The air is imbued with the scent of aged wood, and the cavernous interior envelops you in its hushed reverence. Your gaze is drawn upward to the soaring ribbed arches that seem to touch the heavens. Shafts of sunlight pierce through stained glass windows, painting the stone floor with a kaleidoscope of colors.

Twelve pillars, representing the apostles, divide the nave from the two aisles. Every nook and cranny of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari is adorned with artistic treasures, the heartbeat of a city that has loved, suffered, and rejoiced through the ages.

Some of the highlights include:

• Titian’s work, The Assumption, which dominates the altar, has to be the highlight. Overpowering and huge, it is certainly impressive. This is a canvas that seems to breathe with the fervor of divine ascension.
• Perhaps even more beautiful is Titian's other work, La Pala Pesaro, commemorating the victory of the Venetian fleet over the Turks.
• The Gothic wooden choir stalls, which are still to be found in very few Venice churches
• The tombs of Antonio Canova, the revered neoclassical sculptor, which are said to only contain his heart. Pause and pay homage to his legacy; it is said that in his artistry, Venice's spirit finds a tangible form.
• The tomb of Doge Giovanni Pesaro is rather creepy, filled with frightening-looking skeletons. Avoid it if you are susceptible to nightmares.
• Donatello’s sculpture of John the Baptist, dating from 1438

Essential Tips for Your Visit

Timing is Everything: Visit early in the morning or during the late afternoon to avoid the crowds and bask in the quietude of the church.

Dress Respectfully: Remember that Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari is a place of worship. Dress modestly out of respect for its sanctity.

Guided Insights: Consider joining a guided tour to unravel the deeper layers of history and artistry that the church holds.

Capture Memories Mindfully: While photography is usually allowed, be mindful of your surroundings and fellow visitors, maintaining the sense of reverence that permeates the space.

Reflect and Recharge: Don't rush your visit. Take time to sit, absorb, and allow the ambiance of the church to touch your soul.

Beyond the Walls: Unveiling the Unexpected

Trattoria Donna Onesta

Before you leave this sacred haven, venture into the bustling Campo dei Frari just outside. The square buzzes with life as locals and visitors converge.

It's a place where you can savor the simple pleasure of an authentic Venetian espresso and engage in the art of people-watching. The Campo is the heart that beats in rhythm with the church, a place where Venetian life unfolds against a backdrop of history.

Just around the corner is a lovely little trattoria called the Dona Onesta. It is one of the top restaurants in Venice that we feature in our guide to eating out in Venice.

Looking for another church in Venice or elsewhere in Italy? Have a look at our list of the  most beautiful churches in Italy.