You come to Italy thinking it will be a trip. You leave knowing it was a beginning
San Giorgio Maggiore was one of the Venice tourist attractions that struck me the most on my very first visit to Venice nearly twenty years ago.
Looking across from St Mark's Square, the island of San Giorgio is a splendid sight indeed. Many tourists gaze out at this beautiful church set upon its tiny island from the touristy area around St. Mark's Square. Yet, strangely, few travel out to the island, which has largely escaped the overcrowding that is associated with tourism in Venice.
The first sight you'll see as you approach the island is the magnificent San Giorgio Maggiore Church. San Giorgio Maggiore was designed by the greatest architect the Veneto has ever produced, Palladio. Sadly, Palladio passed away before it was finished and his vision only became a reality many years later. Now we all get to see what one man once dreamed of creating.
Over the centuries, it has inspired the greatest artists in the world. including Monet and many others.
Step inside, and an impression of airy brightness pervades both the interior and exterior, and the façade in splendid white is startling. On entering, the impression of luminosity is even more profound. The artwork within is equally breathtaking, featuring masterpieces by Tintoretto and Jacopo Bassano, among others.
The paintings include three important works by Tintoretto. These are the Last Supper and the Fall of Manna, both of which are located behind the altar. Tintoretto's expert use of chiaroscuro in the Last Supper painting adds depth and drama to the scene, making it an unforgettable portrayal of this pivotal biblical event.
To the right of the choir, in the Chapel of the Dead, you will find Tintoretto’s other work, Deposition. Of significance too is Sebastiano Ricci’s Madonna Enthroned with the Saints.
But the artistic wonders do not end there; there's an entire treasure trove of religious artworks by other eminent artists from different eras throughout the church. Each piece tells its own sacred story, with intricate details and brushstrokes that breathe life into the biblical narratives.
Do take a trip up in the elevator to the top of the bell tower. The panorama across Venice, particularly at sunset, from the top is spectacular—perhaps the best view from up high in all of Venice. As the sun sets, it turns the ancient stones of Venice gold, and the red roofs glow like burning coals. It's a moment you'll remember forever; it is moments like these that turns that first trip to Italy into more than a vacation. It is a beginning. The beginning of a lifetime of longing for all things Italian.
San Giorgio Maggiore is not only a haven of great natural beauty but also a hub of culture and art. That is thanks to the Fondazione Giorgio Cini, a cultural institution created by Count Vittorio Cini in 1951 in memory of his son, who died in a plane crash at the age of thirty. When the foundation started, the island of San Giorgio Maggiore was in a dreadful state after over one hundred and fifty years of military occupation.
The first major project involved fixing that. The center is now dedicated to promoting culture and knowledge and preserving the history and art of Venice through its art institute and library, as well as through the plethora of events, exhibitions, and conferences held here throughout the year. Make sure you visit Il Labirinto Borges (you can buy your tickets here), a stunning, mind-twisting maze dedicated to the author Jorge Luis Borges.
These verdant spaces offer a serene escape from the crowds, a place to immerse yourself in nature's embrace. It's a perfect retreat from the bustling city.
It is not difficult to get across to the island of San Giorgio. Take the water bus (Vaporetto) number 2 from Riva degli Schiavoni and get off at the San Giorgio Maggiore stop. The photo above was taken near the "bus stop," and, as you can see, you won't ever find a better spot to wait for a bus.
The bus ride too is super special; as you glide across the shimmering waters, the iconic skyline of Venice slowly recedes and the silhouette of San Giorgio Maggiore emerges. It is a moment of pure magic.
San Giorgio Maggiore should certainly be on your list of not-to-miss Venice tourist attractions.
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