Caorle - The Spirit of an Italian Summer

On the doorstep of hot and crowded Venice, summer beach fun is in full swing on the long sandy shores of Caorle.

Much like another of the beach towns we love near Venice, a little place called Chioggia, you've got a lot of good things going on here: great beaches, fascinating cycling paths, and an old town of immense charm.

Don't rush either; spend at least three or four days to discover everything and to enjoy some relaxing beach time. We always stay at the Hotel Angelo; it's only a few roads back from the beach in the old town, great value, and always a warm welcome. For something right on the water, try Hotel Astoria.

On the Beach

Blue Flag quality, endless soft sand, and warm water What more could one want from a beach?

Even better news is that there are two beaches: the Spiaggia di Levante in the east and the Spiaggia di Ponente in the west. They're divided by the old town, but both are an easy walk from pretty much anywhere in town.

Both have free and paid sections. In season, most of the pay sections are reserved for hotels. If you are staying at the Hotel Astoria, then they have a lovely stretch of sand just waiting for you with a private changing room, reserved deck chairs, and beach umbrellas.

If you're staying at the more affordable Hotel Angelo or any of the other accommodation options a little further from the shore, then you'll need to use the free sections available on both beaches.

Fisherman's Island & Houses of Reeds

Cason Grottolo Restaurant

Hire a bike, or use the free ones that many hotels provide, and head out to the Casoni.

It's an easy and pleasant cycle over flat terrain.

The best route is along the beachfront bike path. Keep on along the path until you reach the end of the track, and then head inland on via Torino and take the first right. After that, keep going until you reach a T-junction. Turn left, and then it is straight on to the Casoni.

It takes around 45 minutes to get there, and cycling through the whole area is delightful.

This is an Italy that's more like Bayou Country in Louisiana. It's unlike the traditional view of Italy, but it is still an important part of life around here; it is this swampy terrain that has led to the traditions that have made the area what it is. The locals are fiercely proud of this part of their heritage.

Us on the cycle path

Okay, what are Casoni? 

They are little fishermen's houses made out of reeds; some of them are now big and elaborate, with most of the luxuries of modern life inside. There is even one that has been converted into a restaurant, the Cason Grottolo. 

The Casoni are fascinating to explore, and one or two of them will let you in to have a look around. Many of them have beautiful vegetable gardens, and, during the summer, the owners live entirely from what they grow in their gardens and the fish that they catch. Well, that is what they tell me, but I suspect they are buying pasta elsewhere; no Italian can live for long without pasta.

A few casoni on the trail

Old Town Caorle: A Fairytale by the Sea

You know, walking through Old Town Caorle is a joy, the perfect place to spend your evenings after a day out exploring or lazing on the beach.

So, what is there to see? Well, the 11th-century Cathedral of Saint Stephen is simple yet so beautiful. It’s not flashy, but there’s something about its calm elegance that draws you in. What really stood out to me, though, was the bell tower—it’s unlike anything else you’ve seen. It’s the last of its kind, and I swear, it feels like it belongs to another world. You almost expect someone to lean out and wave like in one of those fairy tales or for some princess to let down her hair!

Then there’s the Church of the Virgin Mary, which is so important to the town. It’s not just a place of worship but a part of the town’s soul. Legend has it that centuries ago, fishermen found the statue of the Virgin Mary with Child out at sea, and the people brought it ashore. They’ve been celebrating the event with big festivals ever since. It’s such a beautiful, peaceful spot by the water, and it really ties the whole town together.

And don’t skip the old town itself! The streets are full of colorful houses, and it reminds me of Burano.  with all the bright colors and charming corners. Every time I walk through, I find new little nooks—like hidden cafés or quiet squares that feel so relaxed. It’s the perfect place to wander slowly, soak in the sights, and just enjoy the moment.

A Taste of the Mediterranean

Personally, when I'm staying in a fishing town, I like to eat seafood. If that's you too, then I have just the place: Ristorante da Buso. The seafood is invariably superb and always fresh, and the service is always friendly and professional.

If seafood isn't for you, they have some really good dishes without anything fishy in them; the spaghetti with zucchini and prosciutto crudo is a dish my son enjoys.

The other great thing about Ristorante da Buso is that it is a two-minute walk away from the Hotel Angelo (where we usually stay in Caorle). Makes it easy to get home after a little too much vino ;-)

For the Kids

Make it up to your kids for all those times they've had to trudge through museums "enjoying" the history of Italy by taking them to Aquafollie Water Park.  There you will find all sorts of water slides, games, and pools, guaranteed to keep them busy the entire day.

Getting to Caorle

A car rental is the easiest way to get to Caorle. If you don’t want to drive, getting to Caorle is still very straightforward.

From Venice Marco Polo Airport, you can take a direct ATVO coach to Caorle. Buses leave from just outside the arrivals terminal, and you can buy tickets at the ATVO ticket office or machines in the airport. The journey takes around 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes, depending on stops—an easy, stress-free option after a flight.

If you’re arriving by train, get off at the Portogruaro–Caorle station on the Venice–Trieste line. From right outside the station, you can catch the ATVO local bus into Caorle. The bus ride takes about 25–30 minutes, and services usually run at least once an hour during the day, with more frequent buses in the summer season.

Train times are available on the Trenitalia website, and bus schedules can be checked on the ATVO site. It’s a simple connection and a lovely way to arrive without the hassle of driving and parking.

Map