Visiting Burano Island - A Brighter Shade of Venice 

When the crowds of Venice start getting on your nerves and your mood turns grey, that's when you need to color your life bright... with a trip out to multi-colored Burano Island. 

If you'd prefer not to visit on your own, then the good news is that Burano is included in many tours, some of which only visit Burano while others visit Mazzorbo and/or Murano (the island of glass) too.

DIY Burano

How to get to Burano...

I always make a beeline for Burano first thing in the morning, hopping on the number 12 vaporetto from Fondamente Nove — the one I usually catch leaves around 06:10. Arriving this early is pure magic: the island is peaceful, the colourful houses glowing in the morning light, and I can sit back with a cappuccino and a fresh croissant at one of the little bars, watching Burano wake up. Just a heads-up: vaporetto times can change with the seasons, so it’s worth checking the schedule before you go.

My day in Burano

Then I explore the main part of the old town—the part that, after 11 a.m. (when most tours start landing), is packed with tourists.

After 11 a.m., I go to the edges of the island, down the little lanes, where few tourists are to be found. This is where I hear the stories of life, love, and fishing told by locals.

These stories become my stories, my memories, and the moments I treasure.

While wandering the lanes out on the edge of the island, I've met those anonymous heroes who've made Burano world famous for its lace, ladies like Nonna Gisella, who traveled the world promoting Venice and the tradition of lace-making.

Nonna Gisella visited New York, Paris, and London, teaching others the art she learned at the age of four and that has taken her a lifetime to master. She tells me some youngsters are once again eager to learn the traditions for the first time in a long time, but she fears that cheap imports from Asia will one day kill off the tradition of lace on Burano completely.

I hope she is wrong. Please try to support local lacemakers if you can.

Eating on Burano

A local in Burano gave me some good advice once: "Order the simplest meal on the menu," was his suggestion.

I've always followed that in Burano and elsewhere and never gone wrong...

On Burano, the seafood is super fresh, the vegetables come from the mainland nearby, and the pasta is homemade. They don't go crazy on sauces here; they believe they take away from the quality of the local ingredients. Tastes are simple, subtle, and unforgettable.

Where to eat?

Riva Rosa is the go-to restaurant for dishes similar to those you'd eat at the home of a local family. The bread and pasta are always homemade, and the fish were swimming around the Venetian lagoon earlier in the day. Try their "Risotto di Go," a fishy risotto that is a staple dish here. If it's a special occasion, ask for their top table; you really will get their "top" table. 

Ever heard of bussolà biscuits? They don't look like much, but they are buttery bliss. Visit Pasticceria Garbo in Via San Garbo to give bussolà a try.

Shopping for Lace

What Else?

There are a few sights to see on the island. These are the most important ones:

• Church of San Martino with its leaning bell tower.
• The lace museum I mentioned earlier.
• Casa Bepi, the most colorful house on the island

Where is Burano?