You come to Italy thinking it will be a trip. You leave knowing it was a beginning
Welcome to Belluno, Italy—the mountain Venice. This wonderful town is the charming gateway to the Dolomites.
The feel of this town is unique among mountain towns in Italy—it somehow feels more like a Venetian coastal town. The climate too is mild for a mountain town. It's never crowded, never touristy, and always wonderful. You really should come and visit a while.
Before getting on with exploring the town you'll need a place to stay...
The Albergo Cappello e Cadore is my tip. This is a three star hotel offering comfortable rooms, a warm friendly welcome and an excellent location. It's nothing expensive nor super special but it is good value and your best hotel bet in Belluno.
Belluno served Venice both as a gateway to trading with northern Europe and as a first line of defense against northern invaders. Centuries past, this was the summer getaway for rich Venetians escaping the heat and humidity of Venice.
Still today many Italians, overwhelmed by the summer heat of Italy's big cities, find welcome relief here.
Palaces and villas abound, reflecting the past wealth of Belluno, and judging by the shops, cars, and the way people dress, there is still plenty of wealth around today.
A lovely old piazza—filled with character and encircled by elegant, centuries-old buildings with graceful porticoes, the square exudes a sense of history that can be felt in every stone.
For generations, this has been the stage for Belluno's daily life. Imagine farmers and artisans, just like today, bringing the very best of our lush valleys right here. The tradition of the mercato thrives, a vibrant mosaic of colorful stalls overflowing with sun-ripened fruits, earthy vegetables, aged cheeses, and the proud flavors of local delicacies.
But oh, my dear, it is so much more than a market! This is where you come to live. Pull up a chair, order a prosecco, and simply watch. The air hums with the musical cadence of the local dialect, bursts of laughter, and the best gossip in town. This is your front-row seat to the authentic Italian dolce far niente—the sweet art of doing nothing and everything, all at once. This is where you truly fall in love with Italy.
Juvarra's 18th-century bell tower is a must. Juvarra was a chap who designed a lot of buildings in my old hometown of Turin and he is considered one of the greatest Italian architects of the period. The bell tower is attached to the Basilica of San Martino.
As you ascend its narrow stone staircase, you'll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Belluno and the surrounding Dolomite mountains. You'll need to inquire at the church about whether the bell tower is open, as it is not always open to the public.
Forget the guidebooks for a second. The Cathedral of Belluno is the city's stoic, beautiful old grandfather. It's seen it all.
It doesn't shout for attention. Its Romanesque style is strong, simple, and humble—just like the mountain people who built it starting in the 1400s. They worked on it for centuries, adding a little bit of their soul each generation.
You don't just "see" this cathedral. You feel it. The cool, quiet air inside is heavy with centuries of prayers and whispers. Look up. Those aren't just arches and frescoes; they're the story of a town's faith, painted in stone and color. It’s not about perfection; it’s about presence. This is the quiet, beating heart of old Belluno.
Piazza dei Martiri, the main square, is the heart of Belluno. It's a place to soak in the rich history and savor a gelato while watching the world go by.
One of the town's best-kept secrets is the Ponte della Vittoria. Its intricate ironwork and ornate lampposts give it an almost whimsical appearance. Locals fondly refer to it as the "Enchanted Bridge," and it's a serene place to watch the sunset.
The town is full of life too. Being home to one of Italy's best
universities means that the town has a young, vibrant feel and is full
of good restaurants and lively bars.
Eating in Belluno is a delight, a fusion of the diverse coastal and mountain styles of cooking. They come together in a treat for the taste buds and you'll get some of the best gnocchi on the planet in Belluno.
Polenta, made from cornmeal, is another regional specialty I love, often served with hearty game meats. They love it so much they often eat it for breakfast, slicing it up and serving it with milk and sugar.
Don't
neglect to try the wonderful soppressa (a type of salami) either. I had
better stop now—once I get onto talking about food, I end up going on forever...
Once you've seen all the town can offer, explore the surroundings; Belluno is an ideal jumping-off point for the Dolomites, the magnificent Bellunesi National Park, and the nearby ski resorts.
Just a short drive from Belluno, the enchanting Lake Misurina is a must-visit. Enshrouded by legend and stunning scenery, a leisurely stroll around the lake is like walking into a fairytale.
The nearby town of Feltre, often referred to as the "Pearl of the Dolomites," boasts a well-preserved medieval center.
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