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Marostica & the Chess Festival

Marostica is famed for its living chess festival, where knights and ladies stride across the square as human game pieces. But the town’s magic doesn't end when the final move is made. The town has two great castles, wonderful old squares, and charming cobbled streets that beg to be explored.

Castles in Marostica

The best attraction in Marostica is the castle on the hill. If you're reasonably fit, allow about an hour for the scenic walk up to the Castello Superiore (Upper Castle). The walk isn't especially difficult, but there is a fair amount of uphill walking, and for someone like me who is getting on a little in years, it can certainly get the heart working!

The good news is that you don't have to rush. There are lovely views along the way, and the reward at the top is one of the best panoramas in the Veneto foothills.

The easiest way up is via the Percorso dei Carmini, a pretty, partly wooded path that starts near the Church of the Carmini and winds up Monte Pausolino to the castle. The official circular route takes about an hour, covers around 4 km, and involves approximately 150 meters of climbing.

The Upper Castle itself is more of a ruin than a perfectly preserved medieval castle, but don't let that put you off. You're really coming for the views, which stretch across the Veneto plain towards the surrounding hills and mountains.

Near the Upper Castle is the Museum of Ornithology, which is well worth considering if you have an interest in birds and natural history. The official Marostica tourism site specifically recommends a visit.

Back down in the main square is the Castello Inferiore (Lower Castle). This is much more substantial and has been beautifully restored. It dates largely from the 14th century and was built by the Scaligeri, the rulers of Verona, as part of Marostica's defensive system.

Inside you'll find the Giovanni Longo International Chess Museum and the Costume Museum of the Chess Game, with rooms connected to Marostica's famous living chess tradition. You can also climb to the battlement walk for a different view over Piazza Castello and the town.

Churches and the Monastery

One of the most interesting churches in Marostica is S. Antonio Abate. Inside is what the town's tourism office describes as its most important work of art: The Preaching of St. Paul at the Areopagus in Athens, painted in 1574 by Jacopo Dal Ponte, better known as Jacopo Bassano, together with his son Francesco.

I also love the setting around the church, with its historic buildings and peaceful atmosphere.

From here, you can make your way up the impressive Scalinata Carmini (Carmini Stairway). Built in the 17th century, the staircase leads towards the Church of the Carmini and forms part of one of Marostica's prettiest historic routes.

The Church of the Carmini itself dates from the early 17th century and has a lovely Baroque façade. From nearby, the panoramic Carmini path continues uphill through the greenery of Salin Park towards the Upper Castle.

A Romantic Tale & A Game of Chess

And now for the story that made Marostica famous.

According to local legend, in the 15th century two handsome knights fell in love with the beautiful Lionora, daughter of the local lord. Naturally, they both wanted to marry her, and the obvious solution at the time was a duel to the death.

Thankfully, according to the legend, the lord had a better idea.

Rather than allowing the two men to kill each other, he challenged them to a game of chess. The winner would marry Lionora, while the loser would marry her younger sister.

And this is where fact and legend become wonderfully tangled.

Every two years, in September of even-numbered years, Marostica brings the story to life with its famous Living Chess Game. More than 650 performers in medieval costume take part, with the enormous marble chessboard in Piazza Castello becoming the stage.

The modern event is not actually a medieval tradition: the first modern living chess game was staged in 1923, and the theatrical version we know today developed over the following decades.

If you're lucky enough to visit when it is being held, go. There are jousters, musicians, flag throwers, performers, and hundreds of people in period costume. It is one of those Italian spectacles that is almost impossible to explain in words.

Hotels in Marostica

There are not very many hotels to chose from but thankfully one of them is lovely - it is the Hotel Due Mori. The location of this hotel too couldn't be better - it is right inside the medieval walls, in a listed building, and two minutes walk from the chess board piazza.

Places to Eat

The medieval restaurant (Ristorante Castello Superiore) is next to the castle on the hill (see photo above); its location makes it an appealing place to stop after making the climb. But it isn't nearly as good as my next pick; read on for that...

It is in the town itself, just off the main chess square, that you'll find my number one choice—the Osteria Madonetta. It's just off the main square and is the sort of traditional local restaurant I particularly enjoy: relaxed, rustic-looking, and focused on Venetian cooking. It has been run by a local couple for as long as I can remember, and at my age that is a long time. The recipes are the ones they learned from the generations that came before them, and the dishes are the dishes you would eat if you were eating with a local family. I love it.

Shopping

If you enjoy markets as much as I do, try to visit Marostica on a Tuesday. The weekly market brings the town to life, with stalls around the center and Piazza Castello. The square has been the commercial heart of Marostica for centuries and is still animated by its Tuesday market.

There are also plenty of little shops tucked away along the lanes and back streets of the old town.

And I almost forgot the antique, collectibles, and vintage market, which takes place on the first Sunday of every month, from 8am to 6pm, along the streets of the historic center and Piazza Castello.

I can spend hours wandering around these markets, but somehow it is never enough time. It's only enough time to drive my husband to despair!

Where is Marostica

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