You come to Italy thinking it will be a trip. You leave knowing it was a beginning
The Acqua Alta Bookshop
I've always loved bookshops, but I've never fallen in love with one quite like with Acqua Alta. This is no regular bookstore; it is another world entirely. Piles of books reach the ceiling, cats are everywhere, and there's a bathtub in the middle of a room.
It gets a little stranger the more you explore. One room has a real gondola in it and then you'll see a sign saying fire escape ... which leads straight into a canal.
Sometimes you'll feel you've entered a surreal world where everything isn't quite normal... but it is all wonderful. So how about we take a look around?
Exploring Acqua Alta
It doesn't look like much when you turn into the street where the bookstore is. In fact, if it wasn't for a few books and postcards outside the front door, you would think that you were on the wrong road.
The address, if you'd like to visit, is 5167 Castello, and it is five minutes walk from Campo Santa Maria Formosa. I'd suggest you head to Santa Maria Formosa and go from there. It's the easiest way to find it, and both the Church of Santa Maria Formosa and the Campo (which means square in English) are well worth seeing too.
The minute you walk inside, though, you know that you've arrived in a bookstore unlike any other. One of the first things you'll see are the cats; they seem to be everywhere! Apparently they are all family, and that is why nearly all of them are black or black and white.
Then, as you venture further, you stumble upon a gondola filled with books, followed by a quirky bathtub overflowing with more titles. At this point, it’s clear that you’re in a bookstore like no other—where books are housed in boats to protect them from Venice’s famous floods. With every step, the space becomes more magical, offering a maze of shelves, staircases made of old books, and corners brimming with literary treasures. Let’s continue deeper into the enchanting world of the Acqua Alta Bookstore...
There are lots of fascinating corners to explore, but I tend to like the "fire escape" part of the shop best, which you can see in the photos below.
During acqua alta (high tide), this part of the shop often floods, and that's where the name of the shop originates. Still, on a lovely summer's day, nothing can beat sitting on a chair by the canal and reading a book. It used to be easy to do, but now, during the summer, there are just too many tourists.
Perhaps visit Venice during the winter, and you will have the chair all to yourself. Be careful though; when a boat comes past, the water often rushes in, wetting your feet... so if you hear a boat with an engine, lift your feet up quickly. The gondolas aren't a problem though; they drift by with just a splish and a splash but no mini tsunami.
The Window Chair
One last thing, if you do visit, please buy a book or two to support this iconic shop. Even if nothing stands out, there are plenty of books in English and a purchase helps keep this Venetian gem alive. The elderly owner, Luigi Frizzo, has lovingly run the Acqua Alta Bookstore for years, but he’s struggling to keep it going. His passion for books and Venice shines through in every corner of this magical store, and your support helps him continue sharing this unique literary haven with the world.
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