Malcesine - The Best Lake Garda Town?

Utterly charming is the only way to describe Malcesine, perhaps the best Lake Garda town. Many of the towns on the lake have that seaside feel, but for some reason I notice it more here.

The setting of Malcesine, too, is one of the loveliest of any Garda town, located as it is at the foot of Monte Baldo, with a 14th-century castle looming over the lake and town.

Malcesine isn’t loud or flashy—it’s gentle. Understated. Beautiful in a way that feels honest. I always feel calmer the moment we arrive, as if the lake itself breathes a little slower here. I like to walk along the promenade just before sunset, when the light is soft and the water turns gold. A gelato in hand, of course, and sometimes just a quiet chat with my husband as the castle turns pink in the fading light.

It’s not about ticking off sightseeing boxes here. It’s about soaking up the peace. About watching the world go by and letting yourself fall into that slower rhythm for a little while. It’s something I think we all need now and then.

About Malcesine

The town is a mecca for sailors and windsurfers, but it offers something for every taste. 

Malcesine bursts with life and color for most of the year, and in summer—oh, what a joy it is! Yes, it can be busy, but that buzz is part of what makes it feel so alive. The laughter in the air, children darting through the piazzas, couples sharing whispered secrets on stone benches... it all feels like a scene from an Italian dream.

Wandering through Malcesine’s winding streets is one of my greatest pleasures. Every corner reveals something new: a glimpse of the lake sparkling between old stone houses, a boutique selling locally made linen or hand-painted ceramics, or a quiet café with the most heavenly gelato. I love pistachio, but the lemon here is something else—so fresh it tastes like sunshine.

Come evening, the town glows with golden light and energy. Restaurants and trattorias fill up quickly, their terraces alive with the clinking of glasses and the aroma of grilled lake fish or pasta tossed with mountain herbs. And if you visit in summer, don’t miss the concerts at the Teatro Lacaò—a natural amphitheater at the foot of the castle. The music, the stars above, and the scent of the lake drifting in... it’s unforgettable.

Saturdays bring the old town to life with the weekly market—stalls brimming with cheeses, olive oils, fruit from the nearby hills, and colorful knick-knacks. It’s where locals and visitors mingle, and where you really feel the heartbeat of the town.

Malcesine may be small, but it's packed with moments waiting to be lived—and loved.

Where to Stay in Malcesine

For an upmarket hotel in a splendid location, you can’t go wrong with the Val di Sogno The location can only be described as idyllic and the view has to be seen to be believed.

A cheaper alternative is the Hotel Benacus. It's a small, family-run hotel, and the owners, the De Massari family, are most helpful and friendly. Free parking, a swimming pool, and a good restaurant are other good points.

What to See

The castle is the big star of Malcesine—and honestly, it's hard to miss. Perched proudly above the town, it looks like something straight out of a medieval fairy tale. It was built back in the 13th century by the Scaligeri, a powerful noble family who ruled over much of this part of northern Italy in the Middle Ages. They had a whole network of castles along the eastern shore of Lake Garda, and this one was a key part of their defense.

Over the centuries, the castle saw its fair share of drama—battles, sieges, and political squabbles between the big powers of the day, like the Visconti family and the mighty Venetian Republic. One of the turning points came in 1439 when Venice finally took control from the Visconti, bringing peace and a new era of prosperity to the town.

But one of my favorite stories is from a few centuries later, when the famous German writer Goethe was traveling through Italy and made the mistake of sketching the castle. The locals thought he was a spy and promptly arrested him! His drawings are now on display inside the castle’s museum—no longer suspicious, just beautifully detailed.

Speaking of the museum, it’s worth a stop. It’s mainly focused on the natural history of Lake Garda, but there are also some lovely exhibits about local life and the town’s past. It’s a great way to get a feel for the area beyond the postcard views.

There are a couple of churches in town from the 18th century, but to be honest, they’re not the kind that take your breath away. Still, they’re nice to pop into if you’re passing by. I much prefer the old captain’s house, which dates back to the Scaligeri era—it has that lived-in, layered feel of real history.

And just outside town, Mount Baldo towers above everything like a gentle giant. The cable car up the mountain is one of those things you really have to do. The views from up top are something else. But even just seeing the mountain from the lake, watching the way the light changes on it throughout the day... that alone is worth the trip. More in our Mount Baldo Guide.

Tours

Where to Eat

The Vecchia Malcesine Via Pisort is excellent, ideal for the special occasion. The restaurant is fairly expensive, so it is not really the sort of place to make your regular haunt, but it is an experience well worth having.

For a more affordable lunch or dinner, there are plenty of small, family-run restaurants, pizzerias, and trattorias in town to choose from. Two I like are the Al Marinaio and the Da Nonna Pina.

Getting to Malcesine

By far the best way to get here and to explore the surrounding countryside is to rent a car. Click for the best options.

✅ Directions:

• Motorway: If you're coming from the north (Austria/Brenner Pass) or south (Verona/Modena), take the A22 Autostrada (Brennero-Modena).
• Exit: Use the "Rovereto Sud – Lago di Garda Nord" exit.
• Route: After exiting, follow the signs for Torbole and Malcesine. You’ll pass along the SS240 and then onto the Gardesana Orientale (SR249), which hugs the eastern shore of Lake Garda.

🚗 Road Notes:

• The drive from Rovereto to Malcesine takes about 40 minutes, and it's very scenic, especially once you reach the lakeshore near Torbole.
• Roads can be narrow and winding, especially as you approach Malcesine—beautiful, but best driven cautiously.

🅿️ Parking:

• Parking in Malcesine is available just outside the historical center, often in paid lots. The Paina and Parcheggio Retelino lots are good options.
• In summer, it’s smart to arrive early—parking fills quickly.