The Verona Churches

Verona is full of beautiful churches, some of which are among the most significant in Italy. These are the ones that really should not be missed…

Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore

Verona proudly showcases a splendid array of churches, yet none commands the attention quite like the one venerating the city's patron saint, Saint Zeno. Constructed during the 12th century, this architectural marvel graces Piazza San Zeno.

While the majority of experts extol its grandeur, I, being no sort of expert at all in architecture but knowing what I like personally, find the facade a little stern-looking. Nevertheless, its beauty, though austere, is undeniable. Right next to the church is a 14th-century bell tower that is mentioned in Dante's Divine Comedy.

I love the Rose Window, known as the Wheel of Fortune Window. Meticulously sculpted statues adorning the window eloquently depict the adversities one must navigate throughout life's intricate journey.

Although the exterior may lack ostentatious splendor, the interior generously compensates for this omission. A true repository of treasures, the church's interior is awesome, in the way that the word "awesome" is meant to be used but seldom is these days.

Prominent among its treasures are

• the mesmerizing frescoes hailing from the 13th and 14th centuries,
• a finely wrought brass door that narrates scenes from the Bible, 
• an exquisitely carved marble statue commemorating Saint Zeno, 
• and a momentous early Renaissance masterpiece crafted by Andrea Mantegna.

Church of San Lorenzo

The San Lorenzo Church on Corso Cavour is a little treasure from the 12th century—one of Verona’s most important and atmospheric churches. Step inside and you’ll feel the simple, almost austere beauty of its Romanesque stonework. Look closely, and you’ll discover 13th-century frescoes that have survived the centuries and a striking 16th-century altar painting by Domenico Brusasorci that brings color and life to the walls.

Admission:

• Single entry: €3.50 (though prices may vary slightly by season).
• Combined ticket (Chiese Vive Card): €8 (valid for 7 days, includes entry to multiple historic churches, such as the Duomo, Sant’Anastasia, and San Fermo Maggiore).

For the latest information, visit the Verona Tourism Office at Leoncino, 61 (Palazzo Barbieri, Piazza Bra), or check the official website of Chiese Vive Verona.

Santa Maria Antica

Santa Maria Antica, near Piazza dei Signori, was the local parish church of the absolutely awful Scaligeri mob. The church's history mirrors the ebbs and flows of power and intrigue that defined Verona's medieval tapestry. However, destiny had different plans for this sacred site, as a devastating earthquake in the 12th century rendered its original form obsolete, prompting a resilient reconstruction.

The highlight of any visit is the tombs of the Scaligeri family—they are pretty weird, to say the least, but then this was not your average family. They make the Adams family seem normal. There was no space in the church for these extravagant tombs, so they are outside and are most certainly worth a visit. These peculiar resting places mirror the family's distinct character, with eccentricity echoing through the ages.

Basilica di Santa Anastasia

Situated in Corso Sant’Anastasia is this enormous church, completed in the 15th century. It still eclipses the cityscape with its towering façade. This is one of Italy's foremost examples of Gothic magnificence.

Step inside to encounter an ethereal ambiance that embraces you in profound silence and peace. Then, you'll see the poor little men holding up the water fonts. These embody the burdens we all have to bear as we make our way through this life. Their faces are so sad, with such a profound expression of sorrow and resilience.

Such is the power of these hunchbacked figures that even the most stoic of hearts find themselves moved. I found my heart stirred. An unexpected surge of compassion overtook me, resonating with the hunchbacks' silent struggles.

I found myself crying buckets. As my husband, sympathetic as usual, simply chuckled at my overwhelming sadness for these poor little men. I couldn't help but marvel at the capacity of art to elicit such profound responses in people and such different ones too.

Visiting Verona? Really do consider staying at the wonderful Golden Cage!

We have a lot of other churches, too. Click here for a list of the most beautiful churches and cathedrals in all of Italy.