Europe’s safest city is also one of its most enchanting. Ljubljana feels like a secret you want to share but also keep just for yourself. The charming old town—with no cars, plenty of bikes, and fairy-tale buildings lining the river—feels like a mini-Amsterdam, minus the tourist crowds. Add a lively university vibe, gorgeous churches, and that ever-present sense of joy… And, honestly, I always leave Ljubljana with a smile on my face and a spring in my step.
A trip to the castle is such a treat. We hopped on the little funicular, and up we went! It’s not a long ride, but it’s a fun one—and the views at the top are totally worth it. You can walk down through the park afterwards—it’s shaded and quiet, and you'll get lovely views over the city as you go. We stopped for a picnic in a forest glade on the way down.
The rest of the city is made for wandering. We saw beautiful old churches and cathedrals. St. Nicolas Cathedral, with its beautiful door and gorgeous artworks inside, was a highlight. We poked into tiny shops and found ourselves just meandering the streets. Then we’d plonk ourselves down at a riverside café for a morning cappuccino—or a spritz if it was later in the day.
Ljubljana really is the kind of place that makes you want to stay forever. I only wished I could understand the language; speaking Italian is no help. They may be next door to Italy, but the language is completely different. Don't worry, though; everyone speaks excellent English. Their English-speaking skills really surprised me. They speak English way better than most Italians, I have to admit.
My favorite is the Center Hotel. You won't believe the breakfasts at their Wonder Cafe; actually, you won't believe everything about the Alice in Wonderland-style Wonder Cafe. I loved the silver tree, the giant dandelions, and the walls made of roses. It is like nowhere I've ever been before. See more here.
Ljubljana is really cosmopolitan, so you've pretty much got a choice of cuisines from all four corners of the world.
Slovenska Hiša (Gosposvetska cesta 1, 1000 Ljubljana) is a great choice if you'd like to try local dishes, and for Bosnian cuisine, you can't beat Sarajevo 84 (Nazorjeva ulica 12, 1000 Ljubljana). It is like a tavern-type place, and there is no fanciness about it at all. I love that. It's down-to-earth, lots of fun, and the food is great. Huge portions too, which my husband always loves. None of that gourmet nonsense for him.
By Train
Get the train from Trieste Central. The train leaves Trieste in the morning at 9.03 a.m. and returns from Ljubljana at around 6.47 p.m. The tickets for the journey to Ljubljana can be bought on the train, while the return ones can be bought at the ticket office in Ljubljana. On both the outgoing and return trips, you will need to change trains at Opicina. The journey is beautiful, taking you through the rolling hills of Slovenia, with the Julian Alps in the background, while picture-postcard villages and a panorama of rural life roll out before your eyes as you trundle across the landscapes.
By Car
Driving from Trieste to Ljubljana is an easy journey and absolutely stunningly scenic. The trip is about 95 kilometers (60 miles) and usually takes just over an hour. From Trieste, take the RA13 highway toward the Slovenia border, then continue onto Slovenia’s A1 motorway toward Ljubljana.
You'll need a Slovenian vignette (toll sticker) to use the highway. These are now bought online at evinjeta.dars.si — make sure to purchase and register your car before you drive into Slovenia. The roads are excellent, and the journey is smooth, passing through rolling green hills and small villages before reaching Ljubljana’s charming city center.
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