In a world that is increasingly divided, a world focused on building walls and divisions, Gorizia stands out as a bastion of hope. Here, the Iron Curtain once isolated Yugoslavia from Italy. Gorizia, much like Berlin, was caught in the middle. Neighbors, families, and friends were divided. The two sides increasingly mistrusted one another.
Then it all changed.
The walls came down, and the town reunited in friendship. Now, you can wander across from one side to the other without any border checks. People drive, walk, and cycle back and forth across the old border all day and night.
The old border post remains, but it is now abandoned. Instead, Gorizia has inspired the world.
In 2025 it became the European Capital of Culture.
You'll find this lovely old cobbled street, in one of the city's oldest neighborhoods, on the way up to the castle. It is filled with little antique shops. They do have some lovely items but a lot of junk too. The street is also home to a number of restaurants, cafes, and boutiques. All in all, it's a great place to while away a morning.
Continuing onto the castle, take a quick detour down via Cocevia; it's on the left as you begin the walk up the hill. This was once home to many of Gorizia's Jewish community, a community that was once so big that Gorizia was known as "Jerusalem on the Isonzo."
Most of the Jewish community lived for centuries in Via Graziadio Isaia Ascoli. This area was historically referred to as the Ghetto di Gorizia; once Napoleon conquered the area, Jews were finally allowed to live elsewhere besides the ghetto. There is still a synagogue and cemetery in Gorizia, but most of the community is no more.
The castle has to be at the top of the list. It's a bit of a walk up to the top; I made it, though, without too much difficulty, and I am sure you are a lot fitter than me. On a hot summer's day, it would be best to leave early and take water with you.
The views from the castle are well worth the walk up; they are out of this world: old town Gorizia lies below, rolling hills of vineyards beyond, and there in the distance, the snow-covered mountain peaks of the Alpine Mountain ranges. Inside the castle walls there is a lovely little village that was once home to nobility. There's also a museum; the museum's not bad, but I'm not sure it is worth the entrance fee.
This is a lovely park to simply relax, enjoy a picnic, and take the time to smell the roses and the jasmine; there is lots of jasmine. Lots of beautiful statues too and an old villa that adds heaps of character.
When it's aperitivo time or morning cappuccino time, this is where locals head. Sit yourself down at one of the cafes and watch the gentle rhythms of Gorizian life drift by. This elegant square also features the baroque Church of Sant’Ignazio and the Duomo, built on 14th-century foundations. The outside of the Church of Sant'Ignazio looks rather Eastern European with its onion domes. Inside, it's a cool escape on a hot summer's day, and God's presence embraces you instantly.
An elegant palace housing the Provincial Art Gallery. They often hold major exhibitions here by globally significant artists, everything from Old Masters to Andy Warhol.
Don't miss crossing the border and visiting Slovenia. There is no longer any border control, but the old border post is still there from the old Yugoslav days. The restaurants on the Slovenian side are more affordable too, and the portions are way bigger. If you're a meat eater, you must try the traditional Cevapcici; it is loved throughout the Balkans.
The best value if you want to explore multiple sites.
You can drive from Trieste, which takes around 40 minutes, or catch the train from Trieste Centrale Station. Trains leave every hour or so and take around 50 minutes. Make sure you get off at Gorizia Centrale.
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